Zari is a truly magical fabric. It’s a regal name in the traditional clothing scene, being long associated with Indian luxury and grandeur. Metallic threads impart their fine lustre and sheen, and overall, it oozes sophistication to its core. No doubt, it was associated with the royalty and the imperial lineage. To date, it still holds the regal image among the other weaves, whether woven into a Banarasi brocade or in the edges of a Kanchipuram saree.
In modern times, you may find two large groups, namely, true (pure) zari and tested (imitation or half-fine) zari. The difference between the two helps one make choices about the fabrics, depending on their individual budget, use, and expectations in the drapes, durability, and sheen.
What is true (pure) zari?
True or pure zari is traditionally metallic strands of genuine precious metals, either beaten gold or silver, cut into thin strips or wound around a core of silk. A pure zari is highly valued. Because it has a lustrous feel. It drapes beautifully and is fluid. Garments with true zari tend to be heavier and more expensive, and less likely to tarnish. Hence, they are treated as heirloom items due to the use of precious metals.
What is (imitative) zari that is tested?
A tested zari is a contemporary, low-priced replacement of pure zari. In a tested zari, a copper wire nucleus is plated with gold or silver coatings. This design makes it look metallic like real zari at a significantly reduced production cost. Also known as half-fine zari or imitation zari, it is commonly used in modern Banarasi, Kanchipuram, and other regional silk sarees, where the need to maintain appearance and quality at the cost of affordability has created a necessity for tested zari.
Tests of Zari Characteristics
- Construction: Copper wire centre and electroplated on the surface with gold or silver.
- Touch: A little harder than pure zari, but much softer and shinier than simple metallic threads.
- Look: Glossy and has more colors and finish options over zari pure.
- Price: It is cheaper than actual gold/silver zari due to the use of a copper core.
- Durability: Stronger than plain metallic threads, and more appropriate to everyday use, although
lots of wear will tarnish it, unlike the pure metallic zari.
The difference between the tested zari and pure zari
Touch drape: Due to the copper core and electroplated surface, the tested zari is slightly firmer. Zari of finer metal or metal-wrapped silk is commonly pure, is more fluid, and offers a cushioning feel to the skin.
- Weight: Sarees woven with real gold or silver zari tend to weigh more, as they will represent the real weight of precious metals, and tested zari parts will weigh less.
- Price: Tested zari is a great saving, and fancy appearances are available at a lower price than the real zari.
- Colour options: Zari that is tested is frequently available in numerous colours and finishes. So, designers have more freedom to design their clothing types. Pure zari is commonly found in natural gold or silver colour (but it is possible to have gold-plated on silver as well).
- Longevity and its maintenance: Tested Zari is fragile and can be worn out or tarnished over time due to improper handling. Pure metallic zari does not tarnish, and its original lustre lasts longer.
The differentiation when shopping
- Touch the fabric: Pure zari sarees will be softer and smoother. Comparatively, zari that has been tested will be a bit firmer in the places where there are numerous pieces of metallic work.
- Test the weight: The heavier sarees could be a sign that there is actual metal zari in them.
- Price comparison: A much lower price of otherwise ornate weave is probably indicative of tested
zari. - Check tarnish: When the zari tarnishes or has a dull finish in spots, then it is probably tested (copper-based) zari.
Conclusion
There is value for both true and tested zari. Pure zari deserves credit in terms of heritage value, softness, and durability. Hence, it is preferred by collectors and heirlooms. On the other hand, Tested zari is more affordable and functional. It has a wider range of colour options. Therefore, knowledge of their variations will assist you in making the right purchasing decisions. Be it an investment item or a lovely saree used during regular parties.